the art of summer, pigeon courtship and riding a mama-chari

So, what's happened in the past month? What is happening in the daily Japanese life of me?

Well, Spring warmed up. A lot. As in, straight to mid/upper 70's (mid 20's in Celsius). David (my husband) and I basked in sunshine over Golden Week, at a BBQ, Wisteria Festival, Shimada Central Park, and the various other places we found ourselves. My translucent-looking skin finally met the sun again, and they reminisced as usual, without the redness. And just before Golden Week, I got a part-time job, teaching English and going to English type events (where they want a native speaker). It's a great opportunity, flexible hours and schedule, and a good way to continue interacting with kids and adults, as I had to quit JET a few months ago.

Then, during Golden Week, another part-time job fell into my lap. This one has to do with a website known as expatwomen.com. This also is a fantastic opportunity, and ironic it just appeared. For anyone trying to market themselves, get on Twitter. Do it.

Though the cherry blossoms are now gone, the wisteria were in full bloom during Golden Week, and we managed to experience them on the last day of the Wisteria Festival in Fujieda.

Their appearance is akin to rain, though flowers, just draping themselves over support structures. People can walk underneath them, and how magical it is.

Wisteria soft cream was also served during the festival, which I tried before (it is rather hard to explain the taste of floral ice cream), but as we went again on the last day of the festival, they were already sold out.

After two quick days between Golden Week and the weekend, David and I hopped on the train straight down to the peninsula in Aichi prefecture, next to Shizuoka. We stayed at a hotel on a cliff in Irago, overlooking the Pacific Ocean. The view was gorgeous, and the onsen/spa at the hotel was quite new and modern, with giant windows overlooking the best view, including one large outdoor bath that looks like an infinity pool. Our first night, I sat in the outdoor bath, watching the sunset.

When I was planning this trip, my goal was to find a decent, affordable hotel, with private baths and possibly a beach. (Or mountains, but all those hotels were booked already). Usually, I check a map and make sure there are things like food and a convenience store (conbini) near by. However, when I looked at the map, it seemed as if these things were near enough to the hotel, and David and I could just use the rental bicycles to get to such places.

After our buffet breakfast Saturday morning, we went out to get our rental bikes, otherwise known as mama-chari. I've never ridden a mama-chari before, but at least my bike had a 3-speed gear, though we never did figure out how it worked. It also had a bell, as typical, and since my cross bike doesn't have a bell, I happily began dinging it while trying to stay in a straight line on the bulky granny bike that was so much harder to control. David, ended up with a bike with no gears, an older model, and looked somewhat like a man trying to ride a kid's bike, because of the bike's small size. So, he glared, and I dinged the bell repeatedly and laughed, as we went flying down the hill from the hotel (my mind did not yet realize we would have to come back UP this hill).

We went down the main path and continued on a road, surrounded by farms, wind power generators, and more farms. Lynden, Washington instantly came to mind, as I had not yet seen so many farms in one place in Japan. The smell of manure was much more apparent, and we even rode past a cow barn, something I rarely see here. The bike ride continued for another 25-30 minutes, when David mentioned something about having biked five kilometers. We were both quite tired of constantly pedaling on our mama-chari, moving three times slower than accustomed to on our "real" bikes. So before we got anywhere near "town" as I had hoped we'd get to, for food, we stopped at a conbini for some snacks (and though I had a feeling we should buy some food for lunch, pushed it aside thinking we could surely find food elsewhere). Then, back we went, into the wind and stink of manure, ducking the giant flying bugs, toward the beach.

Eventually we made it there, tired, but since there wasn't much around, continued on to the ferry terminal, where there were supposedly restaurants. Only a few, and nothing really good stood out, and I commented that all I wanted was some soba. After infiltrating a fancy hotel, and checking out four other restaurants (all seafood of course), we decided the best idea would be to head back to the hotel. So after biking for a couple hours, on our slow bikes, and without food other than chocolate almonds and iced tea, we pedaled back towards the hotel, stopping and pushing our bikes up hill most of the way. Finally, we reached the hill to the hotel, where I thought about collapsing on the ground and crying in hopes that someone would take pity on me and give me a ride up the blasted thing. Well, David was already far ahead of me so I just followed, slowing with each step, contemplating thoughts of shoving my bike over an edge, or falling down, because then someone would probably stop. Nearing the top, sweating, and lightheaded, anger welled inside me. No, rage. I hate this bike. I hate this hill. Why can't they just have an elevator or escalator for bikes? Do people really do this very often? And, where is David?

He had disappeared, already at the top, waiting for me. I shuffled my way there, barely conscious, and collapsed in tears when we got to our room. Lack of food, you know. So we ate at the cafe in the hotel, for the second time. Fried potatoes made it better.

Our hotel was at the top of this hill:

Then, though I never wanted to come up the hill again, we went to the beach that was closer to the hotel. We played in the sand and waves and had a photoshoot. And, spied on a couple walking along the beach, holding hands. When they thought no one was looking, the guy leaned over and kissed the girl, and I commented about how romantic and strange that is, since Japanese don't usually show PDA, except in some cases where they show too much... David just rolled his eyes.

Oh, the beach, how I wished to spend my entire day there, but could not because of our 50-mile (80 km) bike ride.

Well, it felt like 50 miles.

I also taught David how to take portraits. He caught on pretty quick:

Then, after a quick jaunt to the lighthouse, back to the hotel. Though, David pushed my bike up this time, while I balanced it. So chivalrous.

I should note that, during the time between dinner (at the cafe, again...) and when we got back, I observed the pigeons out our window that had been there most of the day. This compelled me to research pigeon mating rituals, since it is spring after all, and one sat with its behind against the wall for the better part of the day, cooing and growling. Although, the noises escalated when the other bird was gone, seemingly trying to get attention. The other one mostly hopped around the ledge, or flew back every time the one making noise grew more upset. Codependent bird. Throughout this ordeal, I once sneaked a glance at them nuzzling each other with their beaks. David, somehow, napped through most of this. If anyone knows the noises pigeons make when they court, please let me know.


I think this one was trying to decide what to do about his/her growling/cooing friend. Or perhaps rethinking his/her decision to commit to said co-dependent bird.

And that, mostly sums up our weekend. Though I've left out the sickening bus rides to and from the hotel to the train station, or the small children that women bring into the onsen and jump around as if in some water park, splashing you in the face when you're just trying to relax.

So now, it's back to real life, and back to being a working girl again.

kitchen mishaps, triumphs and summer dreams

Am I in Washington? It sure feels like it. This incessant rain that allows only irregular sun breaks, and even with those sun breaks we still get cold and wind gusts. The cherry blossoms should say otherwise - that it should be warm and sunny and spring-like, but, it isn't. Perhaps I'm hoping for too much, considering it is only March, albeit the end of March. I've had enough of winter though. The cold, the dark, the unusual rain, being sick and inside... Instead I dream of exotic beach vacations and summer skirts and sandals, reminding myself that one day soon I'll be able to walk in the warm sunshine, soaking up as much as possible before the next winter. (Don't let that picture to the left fool you, that was one sunny day out of many rainy ones...)

Then I remember, the awful sunburns I got last summer despite using 65SPF sunscreen, the ones that still mark certain parts of my skin. Or the incessant humidity that leaves one with bladder infections, frizzed out hair and an oily face. Or, the mosquitoes - the blasted bugs that infiltrate my living space and steal my blood late at night, consequently leading to sleepless nights. Oh yes, and the shrieking bugs that resemble giant beetles that enjoy serenading the world at an ungodly hour of the morning since Japan does not believe in daylight savings time, also causing sleepless nights. Curse you, cicadas. I digress.

Now that I think about it, maybe summer isn't as dreamy as I thought... Perhaps I'll be wishing for winter again come August. For now though, I anticipate the warmer months.

Today was another one of those rainy days. Rain that blows sideways and upside down and every which way possible. It is such that, even though I was thoroughly bundled from head to toe, even outfitted with waterproof shoe covers that come up to my shins, and a raincoat that just allows my eyes to peek out, I still get wet. So, upon returning home from errands in the erratic rain, I decided today was definitely a curry day.

So around 5, I get the onions chopped and sauteing on the stove, whilst I mince garlic and ginger and gather the rest of my ingredients from around the kitchen. I'll take a brief tangent here to say that the past week I have begun spring cleaning, which includes organizing and trying to get our apartment more in order. Things are coming together slowly but surely, and maybe one day soon after I get more done and we can actually make some more purchases, I'll be able to share pictures of our place.

Back to curry. The onions are caramelizing and so I throw in the ginger and garlic, and then follow with water, stock, a bay leaf and star anise. That simmers nicely as the flavors amalgamate. About an hour later I get the still-somewhat-frozen chicken in the pot as David returns soaking wet from playing with children. Since the chicken was so cold, I turned the stove up and put the lid back on to get everything heated quickly without allowing bacteria or anything to form. Well, as I got caught up in talking with David per usual end-of-the-day conversations, I completely forgot I had left the burner on high, and sat down to read some food blogs while I "waited" for the chicken to "slowly" cook.

Maybe 20 or so minutes later I heard a sound like perhaps the water was boiling over, and rushed to the stove, where, in dismay, I realized I had left the stove on high, and when I nearly burned my hand taking off the lid, felt my stomach drop at the sight of the scorched pot, a pile of chicken in the middle... and the broth completely evaporated. What else could I do? I started crying, then burned my hand (on accident). It is silly isn't it, since it's not like we can't make curry still, and David comforted me and told me it was ok. I felt utterly stupid for forgetting about the stove, and just stupid that though I started dinner about two hours earlier, I'd have to start over again. So I did, and David thoughtfully cleaned out the pot for me. Although, from there on out, I kept dropping things and having issues all around, which eventually led me to collapse on the floor in laughter. It was all too ridiculous, how could I not laugh?

The curry turned out fine as usual, though slightly different than if it had been cooked much longer. Nonetheless, still delicious.

Although, despite the curry issues, the granola I got in the oven to slowly bake turned out beautiful. I threw some together a few days ago and made some more since David and I already downed most of my first batch. I hoped it would be a cheaper (and tastier) way to do breakfast, instead of buying bags of pre-made granola. The first batch included wonderfully roasted walnuts with oats, cinnamon, cloves and cardamom, mixed up with maple syrup and baked at a low temperature for 50 minutes. The second batch included almonds instead of walnuts. Thankfully, I recently found a retailer here who sells bulk spices, herbs, dried nuts and fruits, so I ordered some nuts and seeds to bulk up our granola a bit for next time.

The sourdough starter was also put to good use this past weekend as I made pizza dough out of it, which we used to make BBQ chicken and Thai chicken pizzas.

All in all, more good food despite my curry mishap. And the week is only half over.

Challenging #17

Oh Spring, have you sprung? The buds I captured on camera just weeks ago are now blooming along our street - a mix of purple and white with soft petals. Though the temperature took a brief dip, the weather warmed up this weekend and allowed the sun to show its face. Since we are tired of being inside, David and I decided to go for a hike on Saturday. I spent the week looking up places to hike on the internet, and found a mess of them in Fujieda (the city next to ours on the east side). My natural inclination when choosing hikes is to find the longest and most strenuous, the ones I actually consider challenging. None of those walk-around-the-park types. However, David convinced me that I needed to take it easy since I am so out of shape from sitting around since last Fall. He was right, I knew, even though I still wanted to choose the 14k (8.6 miles) that traverses 5 mountains or something.

So instead, I looked at #16, 17, 20 and 10. They were all under 5k (3.1 miles) and appeared to be large loops that took under 3 hours to complete. I figured they'd be super easy, even for me, the out of shape one. David looked at them, gave his consent and I decided upon #17, a 3.5k course. This colorful, childish/cutesy looking map indicated some exciting stuff, waterfalls, a bridge, a "cat" rock, and even a tunnel. Whoa, tunnel? It all sounded very "Alice in Wonderland" or some such thing.

We set off Saturday morning armed with enough snacks to sustain us for a 6k hike rather than our short one. Though the sun was peeking out here and there, the wind decided it would rather be its beastly self instead of its happy, carefree, light breezy self. Though, at times I was thankful for the wind during our hike.

The bus dropped us off on the side of the freeway. We walked back a bit as I had to go to the bathroom (go figure). Then set forth, only to meet a slight incline on a cutesy path. "Hills already?" I asked, through deep breaths. David says nothing in reply, but rather is admiring the scenery. He says something only when I keep stopping to take pictures, saying the hike will take us double the time with me stopping all the time.

The park came up first, and we wandered through it, checking out the man-made waterfalls. Wandered towards the woods and walked for a bit when we realized we missed our turn somewhere behind us. When we found our turn, and started up this rock embankment, I almost cursed our decision to turn around. This path was straight up the mountain. So we climbed, me stopping every few seconds to take pictures (and get my breath, I was dying). David disappeared out of my sight eventually, as he kept going. Though, the higher we climbed, the more came into view, and I remembered why I love the hikes that go up a mountain and back down. Those make me feel like I got somewhere, that I accomplished something, and that for a brief moment in time, I could survey the world around me and feel a sense of peace. I had missed climbing mountains.

We climbed higher, and passed the cat rock. It looked nothing like a cat. We have no idea why it is called cat rock. Looking out off the left of our trail, tea fields appeared on the sides of mountain peaks. The tea farmers must be brave souls, or billy goats.

Not long after, we reached the top. The elderly folks' hiking clubs were stopped for lunch, taking up space all over the summit. I tried to angle in between them to get a good view for a picture, but alas, they blocked all the good spots, and ironically, none were facing the view, they were all turned in towards the woods (or in the woods).

Now, by this time I was quite tired, though invigorated over the fact we had just climbed a mountain without intent. Nonetheless, our trail was beckoning, and thus we continued down the mountain. (Rather, trying to keep from falling down the mountain. Have the Japanese ever heard of switchbacks? (Please know I'm exaggerating there.))  We passed a woman wearing UGG boots, dragging a small child up the mountain. Our subsequent comments included something like "crazy," "why those shoes?" and "I'd never take a child on something like this."

The next bit was quite boring and not even worth writing about. Part of it involved concrete and the freeway and a giant overpass.

Soon enough, we were almost to the tunnel. We walked along the Old Tokaido road through what seemed to be a ghost town, and reached - The Meiji Tunnel!

A bit of info: The Old Tokaido Road was part of the original route (in the Edo period) connecting Kyoto and Edo (modern day Tokyo). This route was (and still is) the most traveled route in Japan.

After walking through the tunnel, our hike was essentially over, as the freeway was just in view. So, after another bathroom break, and some soft cream, we met the bus to head home. A fantastic hike, I mused. Though, later that night and the next day, my body revolted against me for putting it through so much trauma and stress. It was only then, that David pointed out the course was an advanced course. Or maybe he mentioned it when we were hiking. In any case, I didn't even bother to notice the kanji written above the title, the ones that clearly state (in small lettering) "advanced course" (in Japanese).


Of course. You see, I really can't get away from the most strenuous and difficult hikes, even if they are short. They find their way to me.

Stages 1 & 2

They say culture shock has several stages, beginning with euphoria, following with some analyzing, then anger & hostility to be completed by adaptation. I felt the initial sense of euphoria upon exploration in Tokyo, and still feel it for amazing things like green tea in vending machines (I’m not sure I will ever get over this). However I also note some things that are a bit uncomfortable (as to be expected) but leave me analyzing this so-called “culture shock” since I tend to want to prove something with experience before it solidifies as a theory in my mind.

Wednesday we left Tokyo for Shizuoka – a 3 hour bus ride. We stopped somewhere along the way, although I don’t remember where and wish that I did, for lunch. I had a delicious tempura-soba, (soba noodles in broth, with chopped vegetables mixed with baby shrimp and fried tempura style, and completed with green onions). The meal was AMAZING and by far the best soba I have ever had, and I am sad I didn’t remember where we stopped because I would love to go there again, just for the soba. Then a friend and I went in search of soft-serve ice cream, and ordered the green tea/vanilla swirl. Someone informed me, as I was licking my ice cream, that Shizuoka folks love their soft serve, and that its everywhere in all kinds of flavors. I almost fell off my seat I was so in shock by this. Soft serve everywhere??? To a Seattlite who has lacked DQ the past the five years, this is truly a euphoric experience.

Upon arrival in Shiz, we had to give some nerve-wracking speeches to our supervisors and carted off to our respective cities and towns. The first thing my supervisor asked was if I liked Ichiro Suzuki, to which I laughed and said the Mariners are from my city (a better response than: …yes I suppose except that I dislike baseball… better to start off on good foot here). I was informed I would meet my Kyoto-sensei (vice principal) and Kocho-sensei (principal) when we arrived, which really eased my nerves. (If you believed that, need to catch on to subtle sarcasm). After an awkward hour of bowing and hajime mashite’s and yoroshiku onegaishimasu’s, we went shopping for a fridge and washing machine, which were delivered yesterday thank goodness, so I can actually eat. I also bought an amazing toaster oven which is larger than most of the typical toaster ovens here so I can cook more things. (I didn’t want to buy a microwave). These were all secondhand, so cheaper. So for all your secondhand shoppers, Japan would be a dream for you.

I was tired at this point but was also starving so my supervisor took me to dinner with a fellow teacher for – soba. I had claimed all the foods I liked but mentioned how amazing lunch was. Of course I didn’t want soba after lunch, especially since I doubted it could live up to my amazing lunch expectations. I ordered something a little different, good but not euphoric. I have to say since I got to Japan my healthy diet has partially gone out the window. I don’t even know if lettuce exists here…(I did find lettuce, but only two kinds and very small).

Finally I was able to sleep, and started my first day of work yesterday. The day went by quickly, since I had many papers to read and sign, and my supervisor and I ran many errands. I also joined the girl’s basketball practice, which reminded me exactly of high school basketball practice with all the running and work, and I have been lazy for so long. I also haven’t played basketball in awhile so had to get my body used to what I was doing. Needless to say, today I can hardly move my body. The girls also tried their best to communicate with me. One funny moment was when one asked if I was tired (I must have looked like I was dying). I was doing ok, so I said (in English) “a little bit…” They all looked at each other quizzically, unsure of what I said. I thought they had heard little before, so I said “chotto….?” (little bit in Japanese) and they all exclaimed “AHHHHH chotto! Little!” I have a feeling I will be using chotto a lot since I say a little in English a lot.

A sidenote – everytime I speak in English the girls laugh and giggle. I’m not sure if its me, or what, but I have been laughing at myself these days it doesn’t matter anyway. I laugh too, dance around and make funny hand motions. They also make fun of the girls who try to talk to me in English, repeating their words as if they did something wrong. Rather amusing.
I will skip the rest of the day but got a call during work from my sempai (senior) who technically “looks after” us new ALTs. You don’t even know how incredibly excited I was to speak in English, full-on, without worrying about if they understand me or not. She mentioned taking me and the other ALT in my city, who is also new, to meet her friends and get some food. At home, I’m not too social and usually stick to hanging out at home or going out with one or two friends but not for anything huge… but I have to tell you a day full of Japanese and I was DYING. So she picked us up later and we headed to Hamamatsu for dinner.

I won’t go into much detail of the first part of the evening, but I have tried more new food the past few day than I have in a year I think. For dinner I had these yummy mochi balls with melted CHEESE in the middle, and they are fried (I know, so healthy), shredded daikon (radish), yakitori, bean sprouts, and these delightful fried shrimp. By the way, the shrimp were fried…whole, legs and everything. They really just tasted fried and nothing else. Weren’t bad actually. I also have tried chicken heart (texture between beef and fat), some strange seaweed salad, a mashed up fish/veggie “bamboo” ring (it is molded around bamboo so it has a hole), fried mochi balls with curry inside, seaweed and cheese sticks, and some other random food. I basically just start eating and then ask what the food is later.

On the topic of food…. Dessert is divine here. I love Japanese desserts, snacks and treats. I polished off a box of chocolate covered almonds (similar but slightly different than at home), a roll of mini choco chip cookies, some donuts, and my favorite koala choco cookies (found at Asian supermarkets at home). Yes, food, for the most part, is quite excellent here.
Also eventful of the evening in Hama was a long conversation another ALT and I had with a cashier at Mister Donut (donut shop). She spoke some English and so we talked in a mixture of Japanese and English, as we asked about the benefits of becoming a Mister Donut member. It was an incredibly random conversation, but she was really nice, and laughed a lot, so we must have been pretty funny. (Who am I kidding I was laughing the entire time).

After we walked out we wandered down the street, sort of tired and staring into space. Well, suddenly this little gray kitten I had been trying to take a picture of earlier darted across the sidewalk just as a man was riding his bicycle in that same place. I find it hard to describe in a way that will make you fall out of your chair laughing as I essentially did when I saw this, but I will try. Along rides a man on his bike, just pedaling happily, not really paying attention to much. Suddenly, little gray kitten has a spaz attack and streaks from his hiding place like lightning right in front of the man’s bicycle tire. SQUEEEEAK!!!! Man practically flips over the bike as kitten almost becomes kitty pancake. Ashley is doubled over having a laughing attack at this point. Man recovers from near heart attack, as does kitty. I digress, cats have some innate sense that spurs them to run across streets and sidewalks when a large moving object is coming towards them. Why else do so many cats end up on the road? Sad to say, but really…not too bright kitties. And of course, some men walking by started laughing at me, since I was laughing so hard.

The past few days have been somewhat uncomfortable, but in a good way. As each day goes by I start to adjust a bit more, and learn how to live rather than just survive. I am comfortable taking the trains, which I feel is a big step in my adjustment (now I just need a bike!). I also feel somewhat more comfortable greeting others and saying appropriate things at appropriate times. My Japanese is slowly working its way from the depths of my mind back to the surface so I can actually use it. People say the first stage is euphoria, noticing similarities… and the second stage noticing differences. However, I’ve been noticing both, and on an equal level. I cannot speak too soon, but I wonder if people who experience culture shock to a greater level really are incapable of examining the things from a third person type of view, rather than just confronting in first person. When I analyze, I see it as it is within its context, just as I do at home. Getting angry is just letting the situation control you, similar as to home, or anywhere. Something we aren’t used to, something doesn’t make sense, but all of that is within our own context, not theirs. Perhaps these are ignorant words since I have only been here a week… but from a theoretical standpoint (based in sociology) it makes complete sense.

On a lighter note…saw my first gokiburi (cockroach) today and then in fright ran through a spider web belonging to a giant spider. Gokiburi = culture shock.